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When I finally checked the W Trek off my bucket list, I realized why it’s such an incredible adventure. It’s not just about the epic views (though they are amazing)—it’s also about the sense of accomplishment you feel after covering nearly 80 kilometers (50 miles) over four days.
It’s challenging, sure, but every step brings you closer to some of the most incredible places on Earth. From standing in awe at the base of the Torres del Paine towers to catching sight of avalanches in the French Valley, every day on the trail has its “pinch me, is this real?” moments.
Located in the heart of Chilean Patagonia, this iconic trail takes you through some of the world’s most beautiful landscapes: jagged peaks, vast valleys, shimmering glacial lakes in surreal shades of turquoise, and glaciers that leave you speechless.
That said, planning your W Trek itinerary isn’t as straightforward as lacing up your hiking boots and hitting the trail. Between booking refugios, navigating transport to and within the park, and preparing for Patagonia’s famously unpredictable weather, it can feel overwhelming. That’s why I decided to hike the trail with Traverse Journeys, which was a great decision.
If you’re dreaming of hiking the W Trek but don’t know where to start—or if you just want to know what to expect—I’ve got you covered. In this post, I’m sharing my personal experience hiking the W Trek, breaking down our day-by-day itinerary, and offering tips to make your own trek as seamless as possible.
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4-Day W Trek Itinerary
Day 1: Base of the Towers (Mirador Las Torres)
Total Distance: 11.2 miles (18 km) | Time: ~8 hours
The day started bright and early as we caught the first bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park. Sleepiness quickly gave way to excitement as we drove through the stunning Patagonian countryside, spotting guanacos grazing along the roadside.
This wasn’t my first time tackling the Base of the Towers hike—I’d done it as a day hike back in 2018 on my RTW bucket list trip —but I was just as excited to experience it again, especially as part of the full W Trek this time.
The W Trek can be done in either direction, but we started east to west, which meant beginning with the iconic and challenging Base of the Towers. This was one of the longest days of hiking on the trek, and I was equal parts nervous and excited to start with such a big day.
After arriving at the Laguna Amarga entrance and registering with the park, we hopped a quick shuttle to the Las Torres sector, where the trek officially began. The hike started with a steady ascent up Mt. Almirante Nieto, a beautiful warm-up that had us climbing through grassy terrain with sweeping views of the Asencio Valley below and Lake Nordenskjold in the distance.
After about two hours, we reached Refugio Chileno, one of the campsites along the W Trek. This was a perfect spot to rest, refuel, and enjoy a snack. I was surprised to learn that you can now get Wi-Fi throughout much of the trek— even in Patagonia, it’s hard to get off the grid!
From Refugio Chileno, the trail wove through a gorgeous forest that felt like something out of a fairytale. But the fairytale vibe faded quickly as we hit the final stretch—a steep climb up a rocky moraine. This part was no joke. The combination of loose rocks, wind, and the sheer incline made it feel like a mental and physical challenge rolled into one. Here’s a little video to show the stages of hiking to this viewpoint!
I kept telling myself to put one foot in front of the other, knowing that the reward at the top would be worth it.
And it was. Reaching Mirador Las Torres is like stepping into a postcard. The three iconic granite towers rise dramatically above a turquoise lagoon, creating a view so stunning it almost doesn’t seem real.
Arriving later in the day turned out to be a blessing because the viewpoint closes at 2:30, which meant fewer people and a rare chance to soak in the moment without the crowds and take some great photos (thank you Harris)!
The hike back down wasn’t exactly easy—going downhill can be tough on tired legs—but the changing light gave the scenery a new perspective, making it more it enjoyable.
By the time we arrived at Camping Central, I was ready to collapse. But I was pleasantly surprised by the amenities. The pre-set camping tents came equipped with a pillow, sleeping bag, and sleeping mat, which felt like a luxury after a long day of hiking.
The Refugio itself was equally impressive, with hot showers, a bar, and a restaurant serving hearty meals.
Day 2: Trek to Refugio & Camping Cuernos
Total Distance: 6.8 miles (11 km) | Time: ~4.5 hours
Day 2 of the W Trek is the shortest leg of the journey, taking about four hours to hike from Camping Central to Refugio & Camping Cuernos. I thought the shorter distance would make it a breezy day, but Patagonia had other plans for us.
The weather turned, giving us a full display of just how unpredictable this region can be. Rain, wind, and a constant damp chill followed us for most of the hike, but honestly, if you’re going to have bad weather on the W Trek, this was probably the best day for it.
I was beyond grateful for the extra rain gear I’d splurged on in Puerto Natales before the hike. Every dollar I spent on that waterproof jacket and pants felt like money well spent as the rain poured down on us.
The trail itself was manageable despite the rain. We started with a relatively flat section, skirting around the base of Mt. Almirante Nieto with Lake Nordenskjold stretching out beside us. Even through the gray skies and raindrops, the lake’s turquoise hue managed to shine through, a reminder of Patagonia’s constant beauty.
The weather didn’t leave much time for long breaks, so we powered through, focusing on getting to Refugio Cuernos. When we finally arrived, it was such a relief to step inside and warm up. The Refugio had a cozy vibe, with hikers gathered around chatting and drying off.
They even have charming little cabins here, which looked like the perfect refuge from the rain—but you have to book them well in advance, as they fill up quickly. Since we were staying in tents, we layered up while appreciating the comfort of the common areas in the Refugio.
The campsite was well-equipped, with pre-set tents that came with sleeping bags and mats, and a dining area where we gathered for a warm dinner. It was nice to feel the group’s energy lighten after a tough weather day.
Day 2 may not have been the most photogenic part of the trek, but it was a lesson in rolling with the punches and embracing the adventure.
Day 3: Exploring the French Valley
Total Distance: 10.7 miles (17.3 km) | Time: ~8 hours
After a wet and challenging Day 2, Day 3 was like Patagonia’s apology letter. The skies cleared, the wind was gone, and we were treated to one of the most visually stunning and emotionally rewarding days of the W Trek.
Starting from Camping Cuernos, we set out along the trail, basking in the crisp morning air and soaking up the beauty of Lake Nordenskjold as it shimmered under a bright blue sky. After the rain, everything felt fresh, and it was the perfect reminder of why we came here.
When we reached the rangers’ station, part of our group dropped off our larger backpacks, making the climb into the French Valley much easier. The moraine trail led us through forests and past rocky clearings, where we took plenty of breaks up the steady incline.
The highlight of the day was undoubtedly the French Valley viewpoint. From here, we could see towering peaks all around us, the hanging French Glacier, and even avalanches tumbling down the cliffs in the distance. Witnessing those avalanches was so powerful—it’s the kind of thing that makes you realize the raw force of nature.
The weather just kept getting better as the day went on, and by the time we were heading toward Camping Paine Grande, the skies were almost completely clear. The mountains behind us were so breathtaking I kept turning around for one more photo—and then another.
Arriving at Camping Paine Grande felt like stepping into a dream. It’s easily one of the most beautiful campsites I’ve ever stayed in, nestled right next to the mountains with birds fluttering nearby and the occasional fox wandering around.
After setting up our tents, we grabbed beers from the Refugio and sat with the whole group, laughing and reminiscing about the day while the sun slowly set. The golden light on the mountains, the camaraderie of our crew, and the surreal beauty of the setting made it such a special evening.
Day 3 was the kind of day that makes all the effort of trekking worth it.
Day 4 W Trek Itinerary: Glacier Grey
Total Distance: ~7.5 miles (12 km) | Time: ~4 hours
Day 4 was a bittersweet ending to our journey on the W Trek. It was a shorter, easier hike—just four hours—and the weather, while cloudy, was mercifully dry. After days of rain, wind, and sunshine, I was more than happy to take a calm, overcast day. We packed up at Camping Paine Grande, fueled up with breakfast, and set out for one final trail toward Glacier Grey.
The trail wound through rolling terrain with views of Lake Grey stretching out before us. As we got closer, the glacier itself came into view, and I found myself stopping constantly to take photos.
We made our way to Refugio & Camping Grey, where we took a short break for lunch before the grand finale of the trek: the Glacier Grey boat ride.
Climbing aboard the Grey III felt like a reward for all the hard work of the past few days, and the experience didn’t disappoint. As we cruised toward the glacier, the sheer scale of it became more and more apparent.
Towering walls of blue ice stretched high above the water, their jagged edges contrasting beautifully with the dark, moody mountains surrounding them.
One of the highlights of the boat ride? Pisco sours! It was such a fun and fitting way to toast the adventure, and sipping on the cocktail while taking in the views was pure bliss. I couldn’t stop snapping photos of the glacier and the incredible landscape around us, but I also took moments to just stand and marvel at the beauty of it all. This was Patagonia in all its glory—wild, raw, and unforgettable.
After the boat docked on the other side of Lake Grey, we boarded our transfer back to Puerto Natales. It was hard to say goodbye to Torres del Paine, knowing this magical place was behind us, but I was also so grateful for everything we’d experienced.
Once we arrived back in town, our group celebrated with pizza—a lot of pizza. I devoured multiple slices, relishing the comfort of a hearty meal and the amazing adventure we had just gone on.
Booking Refugios on the W Trek: Why a Tour Company is Worth It
If you’re planning to hike the W Trek, one of the first challenges you’ll encounter is booking the refugios (mountain lodges) along the trail. The booking process is notoriously confusing because the refugios are run by different operators and you have to make reservations through their separate platforms.
To make matters more complicated, their websites are often in Spanish, and even when translated, navigating availability and confirming bookings can be a headache.
Add to that the fact that these refugios fill up fast, especially during peak trekking season (November to March). If you’re trying to piece together your own itinerary, you might find that one campsite is fully booked on the date you need, throwing off your entire plan. Talking to other trekkers along the trail, many of them admitted they ended up going through an agency after struggling with the booking process themselves.
That’s why I wholeheartedly recommend using a tour company for the W Trek. I went with Traverse Journeys, and it was seamless. They took care of everything—from securing our refugio bookings to arranging transport and providing guides.
All I had to do was show up with my backpack and hike. It was such a relief to have all the logistics handled by professionals, especially knowing how complicated it can be to plan this trip independently.
Beyond the convenience, the team made the experience so much more enjoyable. Our guides were incredibly knowledgeable, sharing insights about the flora, fauna, and history of Torres del Paine as we trekked.
The porters and staff were amazing too, helping with gear and always offering encouragement during the more challenging sections of the trail. It felt like a team effort, and having their support made all the difference.
The W Trek is an adventure of a lifetime, but it’s also a logistical puzzle. Going with a tour company like Traverse Journeys makes it seamless and stress-free, allowing you to focus on what really matters: soaking in the incredible beauty of Patagonia. They offer both groups trips and self-guided tours with or without a guide, and you can get $100 Using promo code LORA100!
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W Trek vs. O Trek
If you’ve researched hiking in Torres del Paine, you’ve probably heard of the O Trek, the longer and more challenging counterpart to the W Trek. While I’m sure the O Trek is insanely beautiful (I mean, it’s Patagonia—how could it not be?), the W Trek was the perfect choice for me. Four days on the trail felt like just the right balance of adventure and endurance without pushing me into exhaustion.
The W Trek hits all the iconic highlights of Torres del Paine—like the Base of the Towers, French Valley, and Glacier Grey—while still leaving time to relax and soak it all in. If you’re short on time or just want a manageable yet unforgettable adventure, the W Trek is an amazing option.
W Trek Packing List
Packing for the W Trek requires balancing the need to stay prepared for Patagonia’s unpredictable weather with keeping your pack light.
Clothing
Patagonia’s weather can change in an instant, so layers are key.
Base Layers
- Thermal tops and bottoms (2 pairs): For warmth during chilly mornings and evenings.
- Moisture-wicking t-shirts (2-3): Comfortable and quick-drying for hiking.
- Hiking shorts or lightweight pants (1-2 pairs): For warmer days on the trail.
Insulation
- Fleece or synthetic mid-layer jacket: Essential for warmth.
- Down or synthetic insulated jacket: Lightweight but warm for colder evenings.
Outer Layers
- Waterproof rain jacket and pants: Splurge on quality rain gear—it’s worth every penny in Patagonia.
Accessories
- Warm hat or beanie: For chilly mornings and nights.
- Lightweight gloves: Wind-resistant gloves are ideal.
- Buff or neck gaiter: Versatile and great for wind and sun protection.
- Wool or synthetic hiking socks (3-4 pairs): Prevent blisters and keep your feet dry.
- Gaiters (optional): Protects your boots and lower legs from mud and debris.
Footwear
- Sturdy hiking boots: Waterproof with good ankle support—make sure they’re broken in!
- Camp shoes (like sandals or Crocs): Perfect for relaxing at camp or refugios.
Gear
Hiking Essentials
- Backpack (35-50L): Big enough to carry your daily gear, snacks, and layers.
- Daypack (optional): If you’re leaving your larger bag with a porter or at a ranger station or refugio.
- Trekking poles: Reduce strain on your knees and help with balance on uneven terrain.
Food and Water
If you’re not relying on meal services, bring lightweight, high-energy options.
- Snacks: Granola bars, trail mix, chocolate, or energy gels.
- Instant meals: Lightweight options like dehydrated meals or instant noodles.
- Reusable water bottle or hydration bladder: At least 2L capacity.
Personal Items
- Toiletries: Toothbrush, toothpaste, biodegradable soap, travel towel, and sunscreen.
- First aid kit: Band-aids, blister plasters, ibuprofen, and any personal medications.
- Quick-dry towel: Handy for showering or drying off.
- Reusable bags: For packing out trash and organizing gear.
Electronics
- Headlamp: Essential for navigating in the dark (bring extra batteries).
- Camera or phone: To capture the incredible views.
- Portable charger or power bank: Refugios may have outlets, but they fill up quickly.
Miscellaneous
- Travel insurance: Make sure it covers trekking and emergency evacuation. I use and love SafetyWing.
- Cash: For extras like snacks or beers at refugios (most take cards as well), and for tips to your guides/porters.
- Notebook or journal: To jot down your reflections after a long day.
Final thoughts: Is the W Trek Worth It?
Hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine is so much more than just a physical journey—it’s an emotional, mental, and downright awe-inspiring adventure. From standing at the base of the iconic Torres del Paine towers to witnessing avalanches in the French Valley and sipping Pisco sours in front of Glacier Grey, every moment on this trek feels like something out of a hiker’s dream.
Yes, it’s challenging at times, and yes, Patagonia’s weather will keep you on your toes, but those are the things that make this experience so rewarding.
It was about embracing the unpredictable, pushing my limits, and sharing moments with an incredible group of people who became like a family over those four days.
If you’re thinking about hiking the W Trek, my advice is simple: go for it. Whether you tackle it solo, plan it yourself, or join a tour company like Traverse Journeys (which I can’t recommend enough), this is one adventure you’ll never regret.
